If you are particularly interested in seeing some outdoor performances, you should head 1.5 km downstream of Zhongshan Bridge to the Retired Officials Park (老干部公园 Lǎogànbù Gōngyuǎn) west of the Huánghé Dàqiáo Bridge (黄河大桥). Click the photos to open up a map.

This isn't the real name of the park (no one I asked seems to know it), but I've named it after the 'Retired Officials Activity Centre' (老干部活动中心 lǎogànbù huódòng zhōngxīn) next door. 
 

In the afternoons it is usually buzzing with music performances of traditional local opera, ballroom dancing lessons, and games of Chinese chess or cards. There are masseuses, boiled egg sellers, newspaper vendors, as well as plenty of tables and chairs where you can sit, drink tea, and take it all in.  

Here is a recording of some of the musicians performing in the park:

Picture
Sculpture at the east gate
 
ERHU PLAYER 10/12/2008
 

Walking north from Nánguān Shízì (南关什字), I stopped to listen to this blind erhu player, who was across the road from the main entrance to the the provincial government compound, at the east end of the pedestrian section of Zhāngyē Lù ( 张掖路).

Here are a few recordings, starting with Sài Mă (赛马), which means "Horserace." This piece was also played by the electric erhu player I recorded by the river in August.

When someone told him the foreigner had put a few kuai into his box, he played the following medley:

 
 

There was a nice atmosphere around the pavilion. People chatting, eating walnuts, playing cards, and enjoying the music. The musicians were having a lot of fun - just messing around until they all found themselves in the same melody and rhythm.

Click the arrows to listen:

 
 

He was playing a mic-ed erhu, soloing along to the accompaniment, which fed into the speaker via an MP3 player...

Click the play buttons to listen.

 
 

Click on the play buttons to hear recordings I made of the performers pictured below:

 
 

Here are 2 recordings I made of the performers pictured below. Click on the play buttons to listen:

 
 

BBC Radio 3 is in the middle of a two week Focus on China.

There are programmes on art, music, literature, nature and history, but they are only available to listen online for one week after the time of broadcast.


More from Radio 3:
The 'Late Junction' programme (Tues, Weds, Thurs) often features something from China. Check here.

The 'World Routes' 4-part series on Chinese music is available from the archives.They visit Shanghai, Beijing, and Xinjiang.