Town God's Temple (城隍庙 Chénghuáng Miào), is know to Lanzhou locals more simply as Huáng Miào. The writing over the entrance reads: "Number 1 Worker's Club" (第一工人俱乐部 Dìyī Gōngrén Jùlèbù). Huáng Miào is an old temple complex of four courtyards, converted into a huge outdoor and indoor antiques centre (古玩, gŭwán). There are also shops for the sale of calligraphy equipment, tea sets and local craft specialities such as carved gourds and 'luminous' wine glasses. Weekends are especially busy. For more ideas of places to find antiques, arts and crafts, click here.
One of the things I like doing here is going up to the 3rd floor tea-house, where there are sometimes afternoon performances of the local Chinese opera Qínqiāng Xìqǔ (秦腔戏曲). Look out for the flight of stairs on the west side of the second courtyard. Entrance is free, but you will be expected to order a drink. Sānpāotáichá tea (散泡台茶) is 5 RMB with constant refills. You will probably be approached by the organisers, or even the performers, and 'invited' to give a donation. 10 RMB is acceptable.
There are a couple of very popular noodle restaurants on the plaza outside the gate, as well as a Uighur Muslim restaurant where you can get lamb kebabs, flat breads, noodles and pilao rice (抓饭, zhuāfàn, slow-fried rice, baked with carrots and lamb).
Getting there: Zhāngyē Lù Zhōngduàn, 500m east of Xīguān Shízì 张掖路中段，西关什字往东边走500米